Protect the Crown: Why NY’s New Bill Puts Black Hair at Risk

Black hair has always been political. From braids and twists to locs and cornrows, our hair tells stories of heritage, resilience, and artistry. But in New York, lawmakers are pushing Senate Bill S5438; a move that would slash textured hair licensing requirements by nearly 90 percent.

Photo Source: NY Times

What seems like “access” on the surface could actually undo decades of progress in protecting Black hair, Black health, and Black professionalism.

Education Is Protection

The bill reduces training for natural hair stylists from 300 hours to just 40. That’s not just a trim, it’s a full-on chop. Those hours cover essential education: hair health, scalp conditions, alopecia prevention, sanitation, anatomy, and the chemistry of natural styling. Without them, crucial knowledge gets erased, leaving our community vulnerable to unsafe practices.

And let’s be clear: Black women are already at risk. Studies show that 50–70 percent of us experience alopecia. Add in the reality that even “protective styles” can involve carcinogenic synthetic hair, and it becomes obvious why trained, licensed stylists matter.

Deregulation Disguised as Freedom

New York isn’t alone. States like Iowa and Pennsylvania have already loosened or removed textured hair licensing. Advocates warn that deregulation often gets framed as helping braiders, but in reality, it strips away safeguards. As Diane Da Costa, co-founder of the Natural Hairstyle & Braid Coalition (NHBC), explains: “This bill may look like accessibility, but what it really does is put Black hair at risk.”

Yes, barriers exist. Many braiders, talented and deeply skilled, are working without licenses due to costs, language barriers, and lack of access. That’s why the NHBC supports a

Braid Practitioner License — a pathway that provides culturally informed training (80–100 hours focused specifically on textured hair, scalp care, and cultural competency). Real solutions don’t erase education, they tailor it to our community’s needs.

The Fade of Professionalism

Beyond policy, there’s also culture. New York made history in 1993 as the first state to establish a Natural Hair and Braiding License. Fast-forward 25 years, and the very license meant to uplift our artistry is under attack. Meanwhile, Black salon culture is already threatened by “grass wall” suites: overpriced deposits, unlicensed work, and the erasure of traditional salon professionalism. If the bill passes, we risk losing even more; not just skills, but standards, safety, and legacy.

Rewriting Beauty’s Future

At its core, this fight is about recognition. Cosmetology schools have long centered Eurocentric beauty, erasing textured hair from the curriculum. That void has fueled bias in salons, in fashion, and even in healthcare. Bills like S5438 threaten to deepen that erasure.

The path forward? Legislation that reflects our full identity, culturally and scientifically. The CROWN Act, Beauty Justice Act, and Natural Hair Care and Braiding Act are steps in the right direction. But as NHBC leaders remind us, true progress means building an education system that sees our hair for what it is: heritage, art, and science combined.

Black hair is not an afterthought. It is not something to be minimized, deregulated, or rushed through in 40 hours of training. It is our crown, and it deserves protection.